If one were asked to choose the section of the North-west Highlands that has the most concentrated mountain wildness and coastal drama, the stretch between Gairloch and Ullapool would probably be selected by most people who know the North-west Highlands. It would certainly be my first choice.
As one travels by road along this coast it is an ever-changing delight as the road twists and turns, rises to the heights and falls to the sea, unsurpassed scenic beauty at every turn, wild craggy hills, waterfalls and rocky torrents, crowded mountain peaks all around, quiet lochans with mirror like reflections. The area is a joy, and all of this starts at Gairloch.
Loch Gairloch & the Torridon mountains viewed from Lonemore, Wester Ross
© Gordon C Harrison Scottish Landscape Photographs For Every Mood
Behind this coastal road lies 'The Great Wilderness', a wild land of strewn lochs, crowded with rugged and remote mountains, roadless and uninhabited, it is the last true wilderness in the United Kingdom. Only experienced climbers and walkers should venture here to tackle the long walks and difficult climbs. In fact not until the 1970's was this area fully mapped, with even 300m cliffs missing from prior maps.
This wilderness is not visible in the town of Gairloch itself, although it soon reveals itself when you head north on the main road out of Gairloch. Gairloch is the main town of this area with it's shops and services such as council offices, a modern surgery, and a first class secondary and primary school. For tourists this is an excellent base for exploring the surrounding area, plenty of accommodation on offer, caravans, self catering, B&B's and several hotels.
There is also an excellent coastal 9-hole golf course, and the Gairloch and Heritage Museum is packed with interesting exhibits concerning the long history and culture of the area.
The area is fortunate to have had a complete history written by John Dixon in 1886 entitled "Gairloch and Guide to Loch Maree". This is an indispensable guide to the area, covering its history, culture, legends, geology, fauna and flora, all with the Victorians penchant for exactitude and scholarship.
With regard to the romantic legends recorded in this guide, many of them would have been lost had John Dixon not recorded them. Gairloch is fortunate to have had someone so able to undertake this task, and few are the districts in the Highlands with such a well-preserved history. Copies of this book, now re-published, are available from the Gairloch and Heritage Museum.
From Gairloch excellent views can be had both of the Isle of Skye and the Torridon mountains, and for those with a taste for the sea, there are several sailings on offer from the Gairloch Harbour for those who wish to explore the area from the sea, and for the opportunity to see the abundant wildlife such as whales, porpoises, and seals.
Last Updated: July 05, 2008