Coming from the south, driving across the flat moorland at Achnasheen, the road climbs to the head of Glen Docherty, and as we descend down that dramatic Glen, we get our first view of the jewel that is Loch Maree, a nineteen kilometre long fresh water loch running north-east, eventually emptying it's waters into the River Ewe at Inveran.
This wild vista reveals Loch Maree to be walled in by mountain fortresses on both of its shores; by Slioch, Beinn Lair, and Beinn Airigh Charr on it's northern shore, and by Beinn Eighe, Beinn a' Chearcaill, Beinn an Eoin, and Baos Bheinn on its southern shore. At its northern end there are several islands in the loch, the most well known one being Isle Maree, but more of the islands later.
Loch Maree, its islands and Beinn Airigh Charr viewed from Slattadale
© Gordon C Harrison Scottish Landscape Photographs For Every Mood
Loch Maree is a rock basin carved by ice in the ancient rock basement of North-west Scotland, positioned as a result of a line of weakness along a north-east south-west fault. The foremost rocks once formed the south-eastern edge of the continental crust of Greenland and Canada, from which they became separated some 80 million years ago.
These ancient rocks are Lewisian Gneiss dating from around 2600 to 2400 million years ago. A long period of complex uplift and erosion followed the formation of the Lewisian Gneiss leading to a geologically complex landscape with faults that the last ice age took advantage of to carve the land as we see it today.
As mentioned earlier there are several islands at the northern end of the loch, one of which is named Isle Maree. The name Maree is an English corruption of Malruie or Maelrubha, the saint who established Christianity in this part of the Highlands in the late 7th Century. Maelrubha probably made a dwelling and sanctuary on Isle Maree, where there are remains of a burial ground and holy well.
Other place names on the loch shore, such as Rhu Noa, suggest Pictish or Celtic settlements, and druidical rituals such as the sacrifice of bulls was known to have continued on the islands in the loch until the 17th century. Isle Maree retained its mystic significance even in Queen Victoria's reign; she fixed an offering to the island's wishing tree during her visit there in 1877.
The northern shore of Loch Maree is roadless, and this is where the 33,000 hectare Letterewe Estate and Letterewe House are situated. This was owned by the Dutchman, Paul van Vlissingen, one of Europes richest men, a well respected landowner, and an outspoken activist on the environment and management of the wilderness. He died in 2006 and is much missed, but his family are continuing his work and his ashes were scattered at Letterewe Estate. Those who work on the estate can get back and forth across Loch Maree to the road on the opposite shore by private boat, but it is possible to make the long walk in from either Kinlochewe or Inveran.
As we leave Loch Maree at its northern end, Slattadale, we have superb views across the loch, its islands, and the the magnificent Beinn Airigh Charr. This is a stunning view, and for travellers coming from the north driving down the super road, speeding round its great sweeping curve as it approaches Slattadale, the first view across the loch from here on a bright still morning, with the islands and Beinn Airigh Charr reflected in Loch Maree is a heart stopping moment, and it will persuade many making this journey to pull in and savour this view of Loch Maree.
Last Updated: July 05, 2008