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It was early autumn and I had started out on a fine morning intent on a days photography, mainly to explore the Applecross peninsula. After about two hours I arrived at Shieldaig village about 7:30am, then, having left the village behind, I soon turned off onto the narrow single track that will eventually reach Applecross.
From this road there are fine views looking back across Loch Shieldaig to the village and the Torridon mountains beyond. The sun was still low in the sky and providing fine lighting for the foreground autumnal scene and the distant mountains. Time to stop, pick a spot and get some shots.
It was lovely and I stayed here for a while just enjoying the peaceful scene and watching the light gradually change as the sun slowly climbed. This had the effect of bringing out of shadow some of the foreground and as this improved things I decided to stay on and see how it would develop. Suddenly, from the corner of my eye, I noticed some movement to my left and as I turned to see what it was I was surprised to see the Hebridean Princess. This is a small cruise ship that offers regular voyages around Scotland's islands and rugged west coast.
It sailed silently between Shieldaig Island and the mainland, eventually coming to a stop just offshore from Shieldaig village. Moments later the peace and tranquility of the scene was shattered as it started to drop both its anchors! What a racket, I'm sure it would be heard for miles around.
A minute or so later the peacefulness of the scene returned and a small boat appeared at the port side of the ship to ferry passengers over to the village. The above photograph was taken just as some passengers were disembarking onto the small launch to be ferried to the jetty at Shieldaig.
This is the second time I've had an encounter with the Hebridean Princess while out on a landscape hunt. The first time, many years ago, happened when I was out in the hills near Unapool in Sutherland. I was not far from Loch a' Chairn Bhain, hidden from my view due to the hills, when suddenly this booming voice, as if from the sky, announced the loch's name and started to describe the surrounding area!
Not till I came in sight of the loch a few minutes later and saw the Hebridean Princess did I discover the source of the voice. There was a certain amount of relief that I was not starting to hear voices!
North-west Highland Place Names
The landscape of the North-west Highlands and the Gaelic language are intimately connected. Other languages have contributed to the richness of our place names, notably Norse, but the North-west Highlands have for centuries been a Gaelic landscape. In listing the meanings of place names I have relied on authoritative sources wherever possible. For further information about sources please refer to North-west Highland Place Names in the main menu.
Applecross; For a full explanation of the origin of this name the reader is referred to Professor Watson’s excellent book – click ‘North-west Highland Place Names’ in the main menu for further information. Summing up his comments it appears that the name means the ‘estuary of the Crosan’ which is the river (Abhain Crosan) that flows into Applecross Bay. The word Crosan is of uncertain origin but is assumed to be Pictish, meaning unknown. [1]
Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin; In Sutherland. None of my preferred souces mention this name but other sources on the web consistently state that it means ‘Loch of the White Cair’ from the Gaelic Bhàin meaning ‘white’ and Chàirn meaning ‘Cairn’.
Loch Shieldaig; In Gaelic it is Sìldeag derived from the Norse síld-vík meaning ‘herring bay’. [1]
Shieldaig; Village named after Loch Shieldaig. In Gaelic Shieldaig is Sìldeag derived from the Norse síld-vík meaning ‘herring bay’. [1]
Sutherland; From the Norse Suðerland, that is ‘South Land’. It may seem odd that the far north of Scotland should have a name which means ‘South Land’, but if you were on Viking raiding party from Norway it would have been an obvious name to choose. [Highlands and Islands Enterprise]
Torridon; Professor Watson gives a detailed account starting with the recorded history of this name – Torvirtayne 1464; Torrerdone 1584; Gaelic Toir(bh)eartan compare with the Irish tairbheart, to transfer, carry over, the infinitive of tairbrim. This would give the place the meaning of ‘place of transference’ with reference to the portage from the head of Loch Torridon through Glen Torridon to Loch Maree. The name applies specially to the strip of land at the head of the loch. [1]
Unapool; A village in Sutherland. It receives its name from uni; it means ‘Uni’s Bol’. Allied to Bol is the Norse word bólstaðr meaning ‘farm stead’, thus meaning ‘Uni’s Farmstead’. This explanation is consistent with Watson’s explanation of the place name Ullapool. [11]
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